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Archive for the ‘Paint Preparation’ Category

Painting Ceilings, The High Challenge

Monday, October 12th, 2009

 Painting a ceiling is one of the more challenging paint jobs. Paint drips onto your face and onto the floor. The angle makes it hard to use a regular brush or even a roller on a pole. A ladder is often needed. Even the lighting is different. To top it off, ceilings are sometimes texture coated. How can you deal with all these difficulties to get a good final result?

The first step to overcoming those hurdles is proper paint selection and using the right tools with it.  Tips like remembering to cover your modern noguchi table, so you don’t spill paint on it, are key to planning.

Paints come in a variety of types. Oil and latex are only the two broadest categories. Finish is important, too. High gloss will create lots of light reflection, giving the room a very bright look as light from lamps bounces off it. Flat paints give a much more simple subtle look.

But beyond these overall types, there are specialty paints used for certain ceilings, such as those with texture coating or acoustic tile. The latter is sometimes used in rooms or areas set aside for home entertainment.

If the ceiling is textured with stucco-like plaster, brushing and rolling are out. The texture will simply crumble off. Spraying becomes mandatory. That creates the need for good ventilation and some extra skill. Using a sprayer is not as easy as it looks. The paint has to be just the right consistency. Otherwise, the sprayer either gums up, or the paint sprays out like water.

Next, it’s important to decide whether primer is needed. For most new surfaces, it’s essential. More top coats of paint would be needed without it. Also, ceilings are especially prone to water damage. So, a primer becomes a great tool to help hide discolorations that would show through the top coat without one. It also helps provide a good surface to keep paint adhering well. That will help reduce the number of drips you get.  The last thing you want is to drip paint on your new modern area rugs, so you be sure to get them out of the room, or cover them.

To reduce dripping in general, make sure to mix paint with the right consistency. Its easy to test the results in part, by painting just a small area first, like the inside of a bathroom. Gravity is still working against you, so if the paint is too thin (or too thick), it will run down the wall. On a ceiling, that would be a drip.

Working at the right speed helps reduce dripping, as well as saves your neck and shoulders from excess strain. For most ceilings, a long extension pole will allow you to apply paint with minimal neck effort.

Have the pole outstretched at an angle. That keeps your head at a more comfortable angle while keeping any drips or splatters from falling straight down on you. Just don’t extend it too far out. A large angle makes the pole and roller feel much heavier.

Fortunately, most ceilings are smooth and undamaged and have few angles or fixtures. If you take the time to prepare, painting can be quick and easy. A few dozen strokes with a roller on a pole will do most ceilings, making the hard part of an interior paint job brief.

( via - askmrfix )

Exterior House Painting: Removing Loose Paint by Scraping and Sanding

Tuesday, September 8th, 2009

There were a way around this step but in the world of good paint preparation, removing loose paint and preparing the surface will always involve hand scraping and sanding. As mentioned earlier, even with power washing you will still have to scrape and sand to properly prepare the surface since not all loose paint is removed with a power washer.

Only work on removing paint and sanding when the paint is dry. There are several tools you can use including a paint scraper, putty knife, heat gun paint remover, sandpaper and sanding block.

To start scraping you find the weak link. Using a 6"-8" wide putty knife, find the loosest part of the peeling paint and get under it and lift and scrape.

Use the corner of the putty knife to dig and chip at corners of the bad paint to remove as much poorly adhered paint as possible. You can try wire brushes too, but I’ve found they work only on the looser paint and you need the hard edge of a scraper or putty knife to really remove loose paint.

A detail scraper is another scraping tool you may use to scrape away at loose paint in small detailed areas like around molding.
On wood siding make sure you don’t gouge the wood with scraping.

A heat gun paint remover can be used to loosen thicker paint. Just make sure to keep the heat gun moving to avoid excessive heat build up. As the paint softens, scrape it loose with a putty knife.

Once the loose paint is scraped away and all remaining paint has good bond to the surface, the next step is to sand the surfaces where paint has been removed. It is important to feather or blend and minimize the hard edge visible at the seam of where paint has been removed and where it remains. Feathering is especially important on wood siding since siding is smoother than say a painted brick surface and surface irregularities are more noticeable on smooth siding.

Before sanding fill in any cracks, holes or gouges with exterior epoxy wood filler and let dry.
If you have large areas that need patching, either replace the wood or if it’s not that serious, you can try an automotive body filler instead of wood filler.

With the paint scraped and the holes filled, you are ready to sand. Start with about an 80 grit sandpaper and an orbital power sander for larger areas.
For smaller sanding areas, a sanding block with hand sanding works well. Use about 120 grit sandpaper in these areas.
Sand areas smooth working to feather and eliminate all hard edges.

( via - about.com )



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